Nightlife in Phuket City is certainly a different flavour of ice cream from the all-out assault of Patong. If Patong is Rocky Road, with everything sweet crammed in willy-nilly, then Phuket City is Green Tea: a distinctly Asian flavour that’s an acquired taste, but a delight once you get used to it. Rather than being an animatronic, Disneyland-ride version of Thailand, Phuket City is a great window into the life of real, everyday, modern Thais. The scene in Phuket City’s nightclubs and bars is very indicative of Thai culture: it’s fun, slightly corny and no one is taking anything seriously.
What to Expect
The big draws in Phuket City are the Thai style night clubs – cavernous rooms packed wall to wall with people drinking, dancing, shouting and laughing. The main entertainment of these joints is the live band, which plays a variety of music ranging from western favourites (usually about three years out of date) to Thai folk music that’s been amped up. There is rarely an actual dance floor as locals prefer to cluster around standing tables. Although the crowds are mainly Thais, there are plenty of foreigners scattered about, mostly expats who live and work in Phuket.
There are plenty of regular pubs around, as well. Many of these are run by and for foreigners and are popular meeting spots. Although they lack the loud boisterous atmosphere of a nightclub it’s the company that makes the evening. Most of these bars are frequented by long established Phuket residents who gather after work to have a laugh and let off some steam. A few beers liberally spread around will get you the best inside information on the island.
Partying Thai Style
When in Rome, do as the Romans do; when in Thailand, BYOB. It’s common practice for the thrifty Thais to drink their whiskey by the bottle rather than pay by the glass. Most nightclubs will happily sell you a large bottle for slightly more than the price you’d pay in the shop. Ask or look for a ‘set’ that includes spirits, ice and mixers (Coke or Pepsi and soda water). Split it between a few people and you can get well lubricated for a few hundred baht. Make sure to spread the love around and invite fellow patrons to join you. Generosity is one way Thais earn status and it’s a great way to make friends.
Speaking of friends, you may be wondering, “What about the girls?” Well, in Phuket City there’s good news and bad news. The bad news is that you really don’t find much ‘ready company’ in Phuket City; the good news is that you will find plenty of normal Thai girls. Thai people, young and old, love to have a good time and there are plenty of single Thai girls who go out just to have some fun with their friends. Some of them are curious about foreigners and may be interested in sparking up a conversation, or something more, with you. Remember, though, these are not bar girls, they’re everyday, working people and you should treat them as such. Despite the impression that you get from heavily tourist places like Patong, most Thais are actually fairly reserved and old fashioned. If you’re interested in a genuine relationship with a Thai, be prepared to put in some real effort and be very patient. Don’t expect every Thai girl (or boy) to go home with you just because you flash some cash.
Where to go
Unlike Patong, there isn’t one ‘strip’ of pubs and party spots in Phuket City, rather, the bars and nightclubs are scattered all over the city, although there are some areas with a few places close together. One of those areas is known as Samkong, a little section of Yaowarat Rd between Old Town Phuket and Tesco-Lotus. Coming from the Old Phuket roundabout the first place you’ll see is Rockin’ Angel, a must for music lovers and artists. The owner is a talented guitarist and singer with a vast repertoire and impromptu jam sessions are the norm. The beer selection is excellent as well. Across the street you’ll find Suea Saming, known to locals as ‘The Bar with the Big Blue Doors’. This is a swanky place with a fine selection of imported spirits and energetic music courtesy of the DJ. Timber Hut, a mainstay on the Thai pub scene that attracts its fair share of westerners, is just up the road. Timber Hut features one of the best bar bands in Phuket and the place is jumpin’ almost every night. An upstairs seating area is available if you get claustrophobic. Adjacent to the Phuket Merlin Hotel is Blue Marina, which, with its basement location and exposed ceiling, is reminiscent of a hip underground music club, an impression which is borne out by the crowd of hip Thai university students. Continue down Yaowarat and you’ll spy E-Sarn Terrace, easily recognized by the giant projection TV. No live music here but a lovely outdoor setting, good food and a cool bar area with billiards and a large selection of downloaded music serving as a jukebox. Just a little ways farther lies Idea Bar, which has the coldest beer in town. The help isn’t bad to look at, either. Sprinkled in between these bars are a number of restaurants large and small, including Chewy’s Steakhouse, which offers some excellent food at reasonable prices and has a lovely pool table surrounded by comfy couches. Many a punter has woken up on those couches after a late night pool session.
The other area with a good concentration of bars and pubs is Radsada Road, near the large roundabout in the middle of old Phuket. This area has really improved recently, with a number of high end restaurants and shops moving in. For a hip cocktail in a posh, Los Angeles-type setting try XVI which also has low key live music from rotating artists. Michael’s Bar, on Takuapa Road off of Radsada, is popular with expats and is a great place for a cold beer and a good laugh. Next door is Kana Sutra, a very good Indian restaurant that hosts regular singles’ nights and parties. Continue down Takuapa Road and you’ll find half a dozen places featuring live bands and an all Thai crowd. One such place is known as Cowboy Bar, not to be confused with Soi Cowboy in Bangkok. Don’t expect to find any bar girls here (or cowboys for that matter) do expect to find a decent live band and lots of faux western kitsch on the walls. One street over from Radsada Road is the Q Spot, a new club with excellent atmosphere that hosts some of the top names in Thai hip hop.
Aside from these areas there are plenty of hot spots scattered around town like Easter eggs. The Peak (Mae Luan Rd), Ozone (Thalang Rd) and Kor Tor Mor (Nimit Rd) are all very popular with Thai youths. They all have live bands and Ozone features a multi-level dance floor and scantily clad singers. Other well known nightclubs are Fantasia and Zanzibar (both on Phang-Nga Road), T2 and Pink Lady Café (both on Tilok Utis 1, near Ocean Plaza) and the outdoor Godzilla Pub (Thepkasattri Rd).
Inevitably, there is an Irish bar and, inevitably, it’s called O’Malley’s. O’Malley’s (Suthat Rd) runs a nightly special that can be a little dangerous: all you can drink (local beer and spirits), all night for 700 baht. Many’s the reveller who’s found themselves praying to the porcelain Buddha after trying too hard to get their money’s worth. A good place to watch some sport is Lemongrass (Luang Pho Wat Chalong Rd). The TV isn’t great but they stay open late and there might be someone around to make watching the game a little more interesting. For the best Mojito in town check out Music Matters (Tilok Utis 1, near Ocean Plaza) which also has a live jazz jam every Wednesday.
Good to Know
Patong seems (and probably was) purpose built for pub crawling, but the bars in Phuket City are a different story. A few are within walking (staggering) distance of each other but you’ll need some sort of transport for serious bar hopping. Driving a motorbike is dangerous enough while sober; don’t even think about it after you’ve had a few. Nothing ruins a holiday like a sucking chest wound. Your best bet is to engage a taxi for the night. Most Tuk-Tuks will be willing to ferry you around the hot spots and then back to your hotel for a flat rate (usually around 1,000 baht). Although this may seem a little steep, its not bad if you split it between a group and it’s a lot cheaper than a hospital stay.
While there aren’t nearly as many ladies of dubious reputation in Phuket City as there are in other areas of the island, they can still be found, especially in bars with a mixed Thai and western crowd. It’s difficult at first to tell a working girl from a normal Thai girl who just wants to get to know you. The rule of thumb here is if she’s provocatively dressed and assertive she’s looking for money. The advantage is that she’s also a freelancer so you won’t have to pay a ‘bar fine’.
When you’re in the restroom taking care of your necessaries don’t be too surprised if someone starts giving you a little shoulder rub. Bathroom attendants in many Thai nightclubs double as masseurs/chiropractors. He’s not coming on to you, he just wants a tip. Either shoo him away with a friendly but firm shake of the head or let him work and tip him a few baht. Don’t freak out and start yelling, he’s just doing his job.
Unless you’re 15 years old you won’t get asked for ID as a foreigner (and maybe not even then). Similarly, cover charges are unheard-of at Thai nightclubs. Bars in Phuket City, like the rest of the island are allowed to stay open until 02:00 but some of the smaller places are likely to bend the rules.
Drink Price Guide
Prices vary slightly from place to place but are always a little more expensive in nightclubs (places with a live band) as opposed to bars (places with a pool table).
- Local Beer (Singh, Chang, Leo, Tiger, Cheers): 50-80 baht, more in nightclubs
- Import Beer (Heineken, San Miguel): 10-15 baht more than the local beer.
- Spirits: 80-100 baht including mixer. Most Thai bars pour dismally small shots.
- Whiskey Set (Large bottle of whisky, bucket of ice, soda water, Pepsi, coke or sprite): 500-600 baht.
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